Food, Journalism

Review: Vincent

the skate at Vincent

There is something luxe about dining at Vincent – A Restaurant. Even a midweek lunch, even on the most impossible spring day — when chunks of ice are flying down Nicollet Mall and pummeling the restaurant’s great windows — even when the dining room is filled with grownups in fussy work clothes. Even when all these things would signal otherwise, the light-filled dining room, the low murmur of conversation, the comfortable chairs, and a glass of wine at your elbow (if you’re lucky) all conspire to create a relaxed air. It feels like a real break in the day.

The other day, we had just such an experience as we lingered over the Signature Prix Fixe Lunch ($13.50). The prix fixe offers two courses, with a choice of Belgian endive salad, an open face sandwich of leg of lamb, or a farro risotto. We opted for the latter and were not sorry for it. Non-rice grains can sometimes fail to produce the creaminess that risotto implies, but this was not so with the humble farro. It came off elegantly in the buttery mascarpone broth, a nutty companion to the warm tomatoes and sweet squash mixed through it. Anchoring the plate: a duck leg, cooked to perfection — soft meat, crispy skin.

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[Appeared in Heavy Table magazine. Photo credit: Katie Cannon.]